Selecting a Dress Shirt - Sizing and Fabrics

Although selecting a dress shirt can be a relatively simple task, there are still a number of options to consider when making your choice.

Most dress shirts are sized using a collar and sleeve measurement. For example, size "16/33" indicates a 16-inch collar and a 33-inch sleeve length. To determine your proper collar size, measure around your neck, keeping two fingers between the measuring tape and your neck. To measure sleeve length, measure the distance from where your spine meets the base of your neck to your shoulder seam. Then, with your elbow slightly bent, measure from shoulder seam to wrist. The sum of these two numbers is your sleeve length.

Dress shirts are made in three basic fits. Regular fit is cut generously for maximum comfort. Big & Tall shirts are tailored with 1 ¾" of additional length. Trim Fit (also referred to as athletic or slim) garments are tapered in the chest and waist a small amount to accommodate a more athletic build.

All About Dress Pants

In a professional environment, the trousers you choose to wear speak volumes about you. There is a world of difference in the impression that a pair of wool trousers will make rather than a run of the mill pair of khakis. When selecting trousers for work wear, there are a number of things to consider: fabric, color, pleats, lining and the finish of the trouser bottoms.

Let's begin our discussion with fabric choices. Wool is the most appropriate fabric for business dress. A breathable natural fiber, wool is available in a variety of weights for year-round comfort. Gabardine and tropical wool are fabrications that can be worn in every season. Heavier weights like wool flannel are more suited for fall and winter. Wool trousers are easy to care for, hold creases quite well and generally provide a great drape.

As the weather gets warmer, other natural fiber options are available. Trousers made of linen and silk are becoming increasingly popular.

There are quite a few trouser constructions to select from, including pleats, linings and bottoms. More traditional dress trousers come with double or even triple reverse pleats (the pleats face outward from the trouser fly). These models also tend to be more fully cut. For a more updated look, select a flat front (no pleats) trouser. When purchasing for multi-season wear, you should select trousers that are lined to the knee. The lining will add both comfort and longevity to the garment.

Finer trousers are generally offered unfinished. This means they must be altered to the correct length. Alter trousers to break once at your shoes, not gather at your heels.

The question of "to cuff or not to cuff" is largely a matter of personal taste. Cuffs do add a bit more weight to the bottom of the trousers accentuating the drape. Cuffs also tend to be more traditional, and thus may be more appropriate in a more conservative business environment.

In order to maximize the usage of your dress trousers, we suggest that you purchase several pairs in fairly neutral colors. Navy, brown, gray, tan and charcoal are all versatile colors that will work with a number of shirts and knits. To add variety, select a muted plaid or houndstooth pattern.

To extend the life of your dress trousers, simply follow a few simple care guidelines. When you remove your trousers at the end of the day, hang them from the bottoms on a clip hanger. The weight of the waistband will cause wrinkles to fall out and help maintain the trouser crease. If trousers become wrinkled, but are not soiled, have them pressed by a professional cleaner. Limit excessive dry cleaning, which will break down natural fibers and cause the trousers to wear out more rapidly.